Norway had spoiled us completely in the days before. Fjord stillness, hardly a soul, temperatures that rarely climb above 22 degrees even in midsummer – the country has such a relaxed way of making you feel like you've booked the whole landscape for yourself. We were in good spirits as we set off towards Preikestolen.
A quick side note on the approach: based on our number of people, we would have actually driven two cars. Parking at Preikestolen Fjellstue costs around 300 to 400 NOK per day – that adds up when you're traveling in groups. The more elegant solution: I started earlier and shot up the 14 kilometers from Jørpeland on my e-bike. Easily saves 30 euros.
Once we arrived at the parking lot, it was clear: it was going to be crowded today. Very crowded. Preikestolen, at 604 meters above Lysefjord, is one of Europe's most famous natural destinations, and that was palpable on this day. The entire hike from bottom to top – 3.8 kilometers, about 500 meters of elevation, steps, rock, slippery slabs – an unending stream of people. The path is really not easy. Nothing dramatic for someone who is regularly outdoors. But also not a walk in the park.
Next to us, people were walking whose every step on the stairs was evident. People who normally simply don't do such things. And they all made it to the top. On this insane rock plateau, which looks as if someone had drawn it onto the mountain with a ruler, directly above the fjord. That is a considerable achievement – and we mean that as earnestly as one can. To go through so much for a sight, when you don't normally do it, that deserves respect.
Yes, it was crowded. We stood at the top among what felt like a thousand people. But this view is real – and memories tend to adapt anyway. In a few years, the other people will fade, and eventually, in one's memory, one stood alone on the rock above the fjord like in an Instagram picture. That's just how it works. And honestly, that's not a bug in the system.
By the way, what we noticed was: all the Norwegians who recommended the hike to us – and there were quite a few – didn't mention the tourist crowds with a single word. Just: great hike, great trail, definitely do it. No eye-rolling, no "but be careful, it's quite crowded there in summer." Just nothing. They are right. Some places are bigger than the hype around them.
If you're in the area and thinking about it: don't be shy. Just do it. If you start early – really early, before seven – you'll have the path largely to yourself, and the light is better then anyway. In September, it's generally quieter than in July or August, without having to miss out on good weather. But even in the middle of peak season, amidst the hustle and bustle: this rock above the fjord is worth it. Checked that box. Happy to come back.
